Building Your Own Computer
In this guide, we’ll explain how to build a PC step by step, starting with understanding your PC needs, exploring the different parts of a computer, and guiding you through the PC build process.
How to Build a PC: The Ultimate Beginner's Guide Topics
CHOOSING THE KEY COMPONENTS
The PC Case
The Motherboard
The CPU and the CPU Cooler
The Memory Kit
The Storage: SSDs and Hard Drives
The Power Supply
The Graphics Card
Some Extra Bits: Six RGB Fans, and an Internal USB Hub
PERFORMING THE PC BUILD, BLOW BY BLOW
1. GATHER YOUR TOOLS
2. INSTALL THE CPU ON THE MOTHERBOARD
3. INSTALL THE MEMORY ON THE MOTHERBOARD
4. INSTALL THE M.2 SSD ON THE MOTHERBOARD
5. MOUNT THE MOTHERBOARD IN THE CASE
6. CONNECT THE CASE CABLES TO THE MOTHERBOARD
7. MOUNT THE CPU COOLER AND RADIATOR
8. INSTALL THE POWER SUPPLY, AND PLUG IN ITS CABLING
9. MOUNT AND CONNECT THE SATA DRIVES
10. INSTALL A WI-FI CARD
11. MOUNT AND CONNECT CASE FANS/RGB
12. INSTALL THE GRAPHICS CARD
13. PERFORM THE FINAL CABLE MANAGEMENT
14. BOOT TO BIOS AND INSTALL THE OS
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How To Build a PC Frequently Asked Questions
Want a Better PC? Try Building Your Own
How To Build a PC Frequently Asked Questions
What component should I start the PC building process with?
We recommend starting with the CPU because it determines most of your component choices. Your motherboard, RAM, and even your need for a graphics card all hinge on what CPU you choose. This is why choosing an Intel or AMD CPU is the first and most critical step of your PC building journey.
What is a form factor? What is the difference between E-ATX, ATX, Micro-ATX and Mini-ITX?
You can think of a form factor the same way you think about the size of a car. Just like a compact, mid-sized, or full-sized car, motherboards have similar sizes. Compact or small form factor PC's use Micro or Mini-ITX motherboards, mid-sized builds use ATX sized motherboards and, finally, full sized builds use E-ATX form factors.
What size PC should I build?
When choosing the size of your PC here are some things to keep in mind. Small form factor PC's present some limitations on the components you can use in your PC and, given their size, introduce build challenges. ATX or mid-sized PCs are the most common builds and provide the largest compatibility options. They are also among the easiest PCs to assemble. Finally, E-ATX provides far more options and power but the size of the PC can be daunting and will take up a lot of space. This is often the most costly build option.
How much RAM should I buy?
The amount of RAM your computer needs depends on what you plan on using it for. At a minimum we would recommend no less than 8GB of RAM, but if you are only using your PC for simple daily tasks, like web browsing, you might be able to get away with as little as 4GB. If you are gaming then 16GB is going to be the minimum and if you are streaming or video editing then 32GB is recommended. For more information on this, read our RAM buying guide on Newegg Insider.
How hard is it to build a PC?
PC building is no more difficult than completing a Lego set or building a piece of furniture given you have compatible components. There are so many amazing guides available on online on platforms like YouTube that will take you step by step through the pc builing process. We also recommend joining a PC community like the Newegg Discord that can help you answer questions as they may come up. For informaiton on this topics, we recommend you review our PC building guide and are familiar with the step-by-step process.
What tools do I need to build my PC?
We recommend a number 2 phillips head screwdriver preferably magnetic. If you are going to build on carpet or in an area prone to static then an anti-static bracelet is also highly recommended. It is also a good idea to pick up thermal paste and some isopropyl alcohol as well. Finally, zip ties or velcro cable ties come in handy when you are managing cables.
How to build a PC
Quick steps for how to build a PC
- Assess what you need your PC for (gaming, content creation, education, streaming etc) and ensure that required components are compatible with each other.
- Check you have all required tools and a clean work surface
- Start the build, following each step from mounting your motherboard to connecting case accessories and fans.
- Switch on the PC to make sure it works and launches into BIOS
- Install the operating system of your choice
Tools and Requirements
- A philips head screwdriver (though a set of screwdrivers is preferable)
- A clean work surface
- A monitor, mouse and keyboard to complete the setup
- A USB flash drive with at least 8GB of storage
- Zip ties and an anti-static wrist wrap (optional)
Step by step guide
1. Prepare your PC case
The first thing you’ll want to do is strip the case down as far as you can go. Remove every panel that you can, and store them in a safe place (inside the case box is the best bet). We recommend using a bowl (or a magnetic parts tray if you want to be fancy) to hold your screws throughout your PC building process.
2. Install your fans
If you’ve purchased some replacement or extra cooling fans, now is the time to install them where you need them. Try to keep your cooling setup balanced, so there’s as much air being drawn in as is being blown out. In case you’re not sure which way the wind will go, the plastic fan guards usually denote where the air will come through.
Typically you want two fans in the front drawing air in and at least one in the rear blowing air out. You could also screw one or two more optional fans into the roof of the PC case for additional exhaust if your PC case has mounting points for them.
3. Install the motherboard
Before we get to install one of the best motherboards, you’ll want to check on a few things about your PC case. Check for pre-installed motherboard standoffs, ensure the number and arrangement of them conforms to the holes found on your motherboard.
Secondly, see if your PC case has a large CPU cutout or window cut into the back of the motherboard frame. If it doesn’t you may want to install any CPU cooler backplates and M.2 solid-state drives at this juncture.
Now that’s done, first find your motherboard’s rear I/O shield, and push it into the rectangular slot in the back of your PC case. Make sure it’s right side up by matching the pattern of cutouts to the arrangement of ports on the back of your motherboard.
Next, lay your motherboard down inside the chassis – carefully lining up its rear ports with the corresponding holes in the I/O shield you just installed – on top of the standoffs installed in your chassis.
Then it’s a simple case of securing the motherboard down with the screws that came with your chassis. Make sure you use the right ones here, as you don’t want to thread the standoffs, in case you need to remove it at a later date.
5. Install your memory
Next on the agenda is installing the best RAM to take care of your computer memory. Push down the latches at either ends of the DDR4 slots on your motherboard. Then line up the notch on the bottom of the memory with the notch in the slot. After that, you can install the memory by carefully pushing down both sides of the memory into the slot. You should hear a clicking sound as the memory secures into place and the latches click back up.
Make sure you use the farthest and second closest slot from the CPU if you’re only using two memory sticks. Complete that and you’ll be good to go.
6. Install your CPU
Here's the last complicate piece in the PC building process, figuring out which of the best CPU coolers to go with.
Most third-party coolers require installing a backplate, which you may or may not have already done from step three of our PC building guide. Each individual cooler will have its own set of instructions your should follow, but the gist of most installations requires affixing a backplate and threading four pins though back of your motherboard.
From there you’ll want to thermal paste if your CPU cooler didn’t come with any pre-applied already. Users will want to squeeze out a small blob, around the size of half a pea, onto the middle of the CPU. This will spread out once your cooler is mounted, and provide a sufficient amount of thermal interface material to successfully transfer heat from the processor die to the cooler of your choosing.
For air coolers, you’ll want to install most models with the fans unattached. Carefully orient the heatsink onto the pins or threads of the mounting plate and secure in place with any provided thumb screws or regular screws. After that, it’s simply a case of reattaching the fan to the tower, and plugging the 4-pin PWM fan header into the CPU Fan slot on the motherboard.
Liquid-coolers follow basically the same process, but require more upfront work. You'll probably have to attach fans onto the radiator and install it into your PC case in advance. Depending on which liquid cooler you’re using, you may also need to plug in a second four-pin cable into a dedicated AIO cooler or optional cooler header on your motherboard.
This is also a good opportunity to plug in the rest of your system fans into any available slots on the board. Or alternatively, if your PC case has an integrated fan controller at the back of the chassis to route all your fans into, then directly onto the motherboard. It’ll also need to connect to the motherboard via USB header.
7. Install your storage
Once the memory is in, it’s time to focus on some non-volatile memory storage, the best hard drives and best SSDs (solid-state drives). Our NZXT H400i happens to have a small SSD bracket on the front. Installing 2.5-inch drives into these caddies is a cinch, as you can simply slide it into place with the option of fully securing it with four screws.
Most modern PC cases comes with SSD bays of some sort. But if you’re case doesn’t, the 3.5-inch drive caddies typically reserved for hard drives should have compatible mounting points. No matter what type of storage drive you’re installing, ensure the connection ports are facing towards a cable cut-out inside your chassis as it will make routing cables easier.
8. Position and install power supply
Now you’ve got your motherboard, CPU and memory installed you’re going to want to choose the best PC power supply to run your new PC and then install it. If you’ve got a modular PSU, figure out what cables you need ahead of time, and plug them into your power supply first.
If your PC case comes with a PSU bracket, remove it ahead of time and attach it to the back of the unit. Next up thread the cables through the PSU slot in the back of the case first, and then slide the PSU into place, securing the bracket back onto the chassis.
Otherwise, on older cases you’ll have to slip in the power supply in through the inside of the chassis and push it firmly against the inside wall as you attach it with four screws.
Depending on the design of your case, you’ll want to orient the fan towards ventilation areas built into it. For most cases we suggest facing the fan downwards or to the side away from the interior of your PC. This way, your PSU can draw in fresh air and exhaust heat through the back.
9. Connect everything to your motherboard
To get your front I/O power buttons working properly, you need to plug in the correct cables. Fortunately, on our NZXT H400i, this is a single block that plugs directly onto the front I/O headers on the motherboard, make sure you orient it the correct way, then push it into place on the pins.
For everyone else, take the individual pins, and, using the motherboard installation handbook, identify which pins and cables need connecting. Try to do this part gently do, so as to not to bend the pins. It’s important to note that any LED lights (HDD and Power), need to be oriented correctly, with the + and - cables installed into the + and - pins on the board.
It’s also a good time to plug in your USB 3.0 header, USB 2.0 header, and audio passthrough. Audio is located on the bottom left of most motherboards. It will be labeled, and the pinouts will be different to the USB 2.0 headers. Install your USB 3.0 cables(denoted with a blue-colored end) into any available slots on the board, making sure to line up the pins with the holes in the USB 3.0 cables.
10. Connect your power supply
Now you can plug in the rest of your power cables.
Identify your 8-pin EPS cable, and slide it up the back of the chassis, through the cable grommet and plug it into the 8 pin power slot at the top of the motherboard. Then, find the bulkier 24-pin cable, slide that through any cable routing recesses on the chassis and plug it into the corresponding 24-pin ATX power port on the motherboard.
Next up, take your SATA power and connect it to any storage drives. If you happen to have something mounted onto the front of the case, run this SATA power cable through the PSU shroud, appropriate grommets or holes, and into your front-mounted 2.5-inch drive. This is a good opportunity to plug in the SATA Data cables between any storage drives and the motherboard as well.
Lastly, you’ll want to thread your PCIe power cable through the cutout in the PSU cover or any side grommets/holes, so that it’s ready for when you install your GPU.
11. Installing your graphics card
Finally, we have the last piece of the puzzle to slot into place.
First, take a look at your motherboard and locate the PCIe slotclosest to your processor. From there locate the two PCIe slots next to where you’ll want to install your GPU and remove them. In most PC cases, that’ll involve undoing two screws on the PCIe slot covers and removing them.
Take your graphics card out of the anti-static bag and line it up with the slots we just opened up. The rear I/O on the GPU should be facing out the back of the chassis. Once the gold contacts on your GPU make are touching the PCIe slot, gently push it into place until you hear a click. Then use the same screws we removed from the PCIe slot cover to secure the GPU into place.
Then it’s simply a case of plugging your PCIe power that you routed in with our last step – and we have a fully built PC (mostly).
12. Turn on your PC
Finally, we have the last piece of the puzzle to slot into place.
First, take a look at your motherboard and locate the PCIe slotclosest to your processor. From there locate the two PCIe slots next to where you’ll want to install your GPU and remove them. In most PC cases, that’ll involve undoing two screws on the PCIe slot covers and removing them.
Take your graphics card out of the anti-static bag and line it up with the slots we just opened up. The rear I/O on the GPU should be facing out the back of the chassis. Once the gold contacts on your GPU make are touching the PCIe slot, gently push it into place until you hear a click. Then use the same screws we removed from the PCIe slot cover to secure the GPU into place.
Then it’s simply a case of plugging your PCIe power that you routed in with our last step – and we have a fully built PC (mostly).
13. Clean up your cables (optional)
Now that we’re sure the machine is working, disconnect it again and bring it back to your workspace. It’s worth doing this because you’ll want to reattach all those PC case panels and tidy up any loose cables.
That means using cable ties to bunch together cables as much as you can. Most PC cases come with cable cut-outs to use as tie-down points. Where there aren’t any, we usually use thicker cables to help push smaller ones flush against the inside of our computer chassis.
14. Install Windows (or the operating system of your choice)
Bring the system back to your computer space, where it’ll sit forever – or at least until your next upgrade – as we’ll want to install the operating system next.
Most modern rigs lack an optical drive to install your OS, so you’ll need to create a USB install on another PC. To do this, download the Windows 11 Media Creation Kit and then install Windows 11 onto a USB stick with at least 8GB of space.
Then, once it’s finished, simply plug it into your new system. Go back into your BIOS to tell your system to boot from the USB stick first. From there you can go through the prompts to install the operating system onto your new rig. Don’t worry about not having a software key during installation, you can activate Windows 10 once you reach the desktop.
15. Desktop maintenance
Once you’re finally logged on, head on over to the manufacturer’s website, find your motherboard, head to service, and download the correct chipset drivers for your system.
Ninite is a nifty tool to get all the programs you want fast without having to worry about installing each one individually is. On the Ninite site, you can select which programs you want, download the installer and let it run its magic. After that, go download and install the correct graphics driver for your card and you’ll be all set to sit back and enjoy.
What components do I need for my PC?
Gaming? Content creation? Everyday office work? Education? All have different requirements.
These days, basically everyone needs a decent PC to get through life, but they come in so many shapes and sizes that it's important to know what you're trying to build before you even get started.
For instance, if you're just going to be using your PC to do daily office work – like web browsing or writing up documents – you don't need to drop thousands of dollars on a fancy gaming rig.
Computers are legitimately more powerful now than they've ever been, and there's never been more options to build something that will tear through the best PC games like they were so much paper.
What tools do I need to build a PC?
You may need fewer tools to build a computer than you'd assume.
Although a single phillips screwdriver is all you need to construct a PC, you may want a few more things on hand just in case. For example, needle nose pliers or a simple pair of tweezers may come in handy to place screws into tight places or retrieve them.
Zip ties are useful for tidying up all your PC cables and luckily, you most likely won’t have to buy them as they often come included with several different types of computer parts. You’ll also need a pair of side cutters (or just scissors) to cut those said zip ties.
You can’t go wrong with an anti-static wrist strap, either – though you can get away with not having one. Unless you’ve been running around on carpet all day, or have cats, you likely aren’t holding enough static charge to damage the electronics. Just do yourself a favor and discharge any latent electricity by placing your hand on metal, like your PC case or power supply.
As for your workspace, you’re going to want to clear off a good bit of table space, as you'll likely be flipping your PC on its side, feet, back and any which way to install everything.
And, before we forget, it’s a good idea to get a monitor, keyboard and mouse set up before you start building, so you have something to plug it into when the building is done. You should also have a power socket and internet connection available.
It’s hard to find a modern build with an optical drive these days, so put the Windows 11 installer onto a USB stick (we talk you through this in how to install Windows 11). If you can’t find a handy thumb drive and a laptop, we would cannibalize an older rig for a CD drive, or even just buy one – you can find them online for less than 10 bucks these days.
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How to build your own PC
On this section:
- What do you want to build?
- What can you afford?
- What hardware parts will you need?
- How to build a PC
What do you want to build?
As with anything you build, understanding what you want to create is usually the best place to start.
You might be a die-hard gamer looking for a custom gaming PC, a student doing research and editing, or someone who uses their computer for day-to-day tasks.
Once you know what kind of PC you want, you'll understand what kind of hardware and performance you need — and avoid paying for things you don't.
What can you afford?
The amount of money you spend on computer parts can vary greatly, so it’s a good idea to have a realistic budget in mind ahead of time.
Expect to pay more if you're going for the best possible performance in all of your PC components. Faster processors cost more than slower ones, and newer generations of memory and storage with more capacity generally cost more than older ones with less.
Since memory and storage take a large chunk of the cost of a new computer, building your own PC gives you the flexibility to save on these components if you wish. While RAM and SSD costs rise with the amount of capacity they offer, they can be less expensive than buying pre-installed components that are often inadequate and need to be upgraded quickly.
What hardware parts will you need?
The five areas of hardware you'll need to research for any PC build are:
- Motherboard
- Processor/Central Processing Unit (CPU)
- Memory (RAM)
- Storage (SSD)
- Case, fans and power supply
Other components — such as the case, operating system (OS), monitor, mouse, power supply, and keyboard — will have less of an impact on performance, but don’t forget to include them in your overall budget.
1. Motherboard
The motherboard is the circuit board that connects everything together — your hardware, the power supply and the graphics cards — so it’s the first component you'll want to choose. The motherboard also determines what other pieces of hardware the computer can use. In other words, not all components are compatible with all motherboards.
For example, the motherboard establishes the power of the processor your PC can handle, the memory technology (DDR5, DDR4, DDR3, etc), the storage form factor (2.5-inch, mSATA, or m.2) and the storage interface (SATA or PCIe). (If these terms all sound confusing to you, check out our explanations on memory technology generations and storage form factors).
2. Processor/Central Processing Unit (CPU)
The CPU is the engine of your computer and sets the performance expectations for the entire build. The CPU provides the processing power and instructions behind all your computer’s operations.
When determining which CPU to install, pay attention to the gigahertz (GHz) — the higher the GHz, the faster the processor. However, more GHz also means the CPU consumes more energy, leading to higher system temperatures that require better airflow or heat dissipation. This will likely mean you need to add a cooling system to your build as well.
3. Memory (RAM)
Adding memory (RAM) is one of the fastest and most affordable ways to boost the performance of a computer.
RAM gives your system more available space to temporarily store data that's being used, so it helps you carry out simultaneous tasks, like having several programs open, or surfing the web without long load times.
Choosing the best RAM for your system involves two things: compatibility and how much RAM your system can support. First, identify the kind of module your system uses by the form factor (the physical form of the module — generally, desktops use UDIMMs, laptops use SODIMMs), then figure out the memory technology (DDR5, DDR4, DDR3, etc.) your system supports.
Second, your system can only handle so many GBs of memory. If you buy 64GB of RAM and your computer can only handle 16GB, that's 48GB wasted. And not everyone needs the same amount of RAM – think realistically about how much RAM you need for your computer usage.
There's an easy way to find compatible upgrades: download the Crucial® System Scanner. It displays how much memory you currently have, the maximum memory capacity of your computer, and available upgrades for your specific system. Using the System Scanner is safe, doesn't cost a thing, and guarantees product compatibility when you order on Crucial.com.
4. Storage (SSD)
Your files and data are saved on a storage drive — either a hard disk drive (HDD) or a solid state drive (SSD). Although HDDs have traditionally given you more storage for a higher value, SSDs have essentially made them outdated – performing 6x faster on average and 90x more energy-efficient2 than HDDs.
5. Case, fans, and power supply
The kind of PC you're building will also influence the kind of case, fan, and power supply you’ll need to use. If you're creating a high-powered performance workhorse, for example, you'll need a robust power supply to run it.
You’ll also require a case with optimal internal airflow and fans to expel hot air that could potentially damage the system.
Top tip: Zip ties are a massive help when managing all the cables inside your rig. Consolidating cables also helps improve airflow.
How to build a PC
The build is where it really starts to get exciting!
- Before you start
- Add the hardware
- Install the memory>
- Install the SSD
- Test the system
Before you start
Prepare a large workspace to keep your build organized — it's frustrating to not be able to find what you’re looking for!
Wear an electrostatic discharge (ESD) wrist strap or ground yourself by touching an unpainted metal surface to prevent static electricity, and work on solid floors rather than carpeting, if possible. Static energy is one of the few ways in which hardware can get damaged.
Keep a can of compressed air handy to remove any dust or fine debris from the interface, especially while you install the processor, memory and SSD.
1. Add the hardware
First, install the processor and power supply on the motherboard, and then put the motherboard in the case.
Installation and assembly of parts isn't complicated, but there is potential for errors to occur. We recommend you consult each component's manual for precise instructions.
2. Install the memory
RAM is the most straightforward hardware to install when building a PC:
- Locate the memory slots on the motherboard.
- Hold your memory modules on the side to avoid touching the chips and gold pins.
- Align the notches on the module with the ridge in the slot, then firmly press the module in place until it clicks.
- As you're pressing, note that it takes about 30 pounds of pressure to install a module fully.
For more details on installing RAM, explore how to install memory on a laptop or on a desktop.
3. Install the SSD
Installation will differ depending on the form factor of the SSD you've purchased (2.5-inch, mSATA, or M.2).
For instructions on installing your hard drive, consult its owner's manual, refer to our how to install a Crucial SSD in your computer page, or view all of our SSD installation FAQs.
4. Test the system
Once your system is assembled, it's time for the big moment — hit the power button!
Make sure your monitor and keyboard are connected, and if everything works correctly, a screen will appear where you can enter the system BIOS.
If you have a disc or flash drive with an OS, put it into the appropriate drive, boot up, and you can install the OS. Congratulations, you've now built your own PC!
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Want a Better PC? Try Building Your Own
What Do You Need?
In order to get a list of components together, no matter what your experience level is, you should use PCPartPicker. Not only does it have everything you need to buy, it also lets you build your PC piece by piece right on the website and makes sure all your hardware will play nicely together. It even has a few example builds you can tweak to your liking. Additionally, I recommend keeping a list of what you want, what you have, and what your budget is. I do this in Notes on my phone, with the title of each build right up at the top. It comes in handy to keep track of things.
Regardless of what kind of PC you’re building (home office or gaming), the components you need are going to be the same. For the purposes of this guide you're going to see a lot of abbreviations but let this section act as your glossary.
First off, you’ll need a motherboard, a central processing unit (CPU), a solid state drive (SSD) or hard disk drive (HDD) for storage, memory (RAM), a power supply (PSU), a case, and a monitor. The only thing you might not need if you're mostly using this PC for home-office tasks is a graphics card (or GPU), but it's necessary for photo or video editing and gaming. That’s a lot of stuff! Here's a little breakdown of what each component does, along with some hardware recommendations.
This board has two RAM slots, and at least one M.2 slot, a typical budget board.
Every other component plugs into this circuit board. It’s the highway they use to communicate and collaborate. They come in different sizes and configurations, and each one looks a little different, but they all fill the same function. Make sure you know which processor you want before you buy a motherboard.
Motherboards come in a couple of flavors, but the most important thing to know is what kind of socket it has. There are basically two: LGA and AM. You'll always see them listed with a number after them, like “LGA1150” or “AM3.” The exact numbers after the LGA and AM portions of these socket names will change over time, to indicate which generation of Intel or AMD chips they support, but the current standards as of 2022 (which will work with the latest chips from either maker) are LGA1700 for Intel and AM4 for AMD.
Motherboards also come in a couple of sizes, the most common being ATX (or “full size”). That’s what I generally recommend, especially if this is your first build. Your PC case will list which size motherboard it supports, so make sure they match up. I've made that mistake before and it's always a pain to realize your motherboard is too big for your snazzy little case.
Buying advice: Okay, let's be real: What separates a fancy motherboard from a cheap motherboard? The truth is, not much. A more expensive motherboard like the MSI MPG Z590 is going to mean you get more ports, more slots for internal components like storage drives, and more slots for RAM or support for more RAM. Nicer boards also typically have more lights on them, too which is of vital importance for a gaming PC.
The question though, is whether or not you need those extra ports. When it comes to storage drives, two M.2 slots is plenty, more than that is kind of a luxury. With regard to RAM, 16 GB is what I'd say is the minimum for a gaming PC. Moving up to 32 GB is essential for video editing, and it's really nice to have for gaming but it's not a requirement by any means.
This list has motherboards of all price points on it, but there are way more out there than we can ever test and cover for you so if you see one that you like, write down its specs and compare it to others on the market to find a good fit for your budget and your vibe. We try to keep this list updated regularly with prices that aren't too much higher than MSRP, but if any of the prices here skyrockets between updates, shop around.
Suggested Hardware
- ASUS ROG Strix B450-F (AM4 Socket): For a rig designed for 1080p gaming, start here.
- Asus ROG Strix B550-F (AM4 Socket): This motherboard has a few extra ports (including Thunderbolt 3) you'll appreciate if you're building a mid to high end gaming PC on an AMD processor.
- MSI MPG Z490 (LGA 1200 Socket): This one is great for 10th and 11th-generation Intel processors and mid-tier machines.
- ASUS ROG Strix (LGA 1700 Socket): This is a high-performance motherboard for gaming machines. If you're picking up a 12th or 13th-generation Intel processor, this is our recommendation.
Processor (CPU)
This is the brain of your computer. It sockets directly into the motherboard, and it’s the single most important component of your PC. That doesn’t mean it has to be the most expensive (we’ll get to that later), or that it's the most important for gaming performance. Like your brain, everything your PC does goes through here. Your legs are important for running, but it's your brain that tells them to move.
Buying advice: You're going to see the highest markups on your CPU and GPU. But these prices will move around quite a bit, so keep checking back if you can't afford the component you want at the moment. If the CPU doesn't mention including thermal paste, get some. Don't eat it. I know it looks tasty, but it's not actually food.
Suggested Hardware
- Intel Core i5-12600K 6-Core 3.7 GHz (LGA 1700 Socket): Intel's 12th-generation i5 offerings are a great choice for everyday workloads and won't get bogged down by your games, as long as you have the GPU horsepower to pull most of that weight.
- Intel Core i7-12700K 8-Core 3.6 GHz (LGA 1700 Socket): An Intel i7 will see you through most heavy workday tasks and 4K gaming.
- Intel Core i9-13900K 8-Core 5.8 GHz (LGA 1700 Socket): Intel's high-end gaming option, the 13th-gen Core i9, is an incredibly versatile performer. This thing pushes games to their absolute limit and shreds content creation workloads. It is very pricey as it just hit store shelves and it's one of the highest-end processors on the market, but it's an absolute beast.
- AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 6-Core 5.3 GHz (AM5 Socket): The Ryzen 5 7600X is an excellent choice for a gaming or video editing PC. It's not as quick or nimble as AMD's top-end offerings but honestly it keeps pace with the more expensive processors surprisingly well.
- AMD Ryzen 9 7950X 16-core 5.7 GHz (AM5 Socket): AMD's 16-core behemoth is a killer CPU for high-end 4K or 144-Hz gaming, but it has some special requirements. It gets so hot there's no way you should put it into a PC without a liquid cooler like Asus ROG Ryujin II Liquid Cooler.
Graphics Card (GPU)
If you’ll be playing games on this PC, you’ll need a graphics processing unit (also called a graphics card). This is a specialized processor that’s designed and optimized for handling visual data like the graphics in games. It's also used in video and photo editing and other graphics-intensive tasks.
Your CPU is the best of the best when it comes to processing information sequentially—one message after another—it does this lightning-fast, millions of times per second, but that's still not quick enough to run a graphically demanding game at a high frame-rate.
For that you need a special kind of processor, one that's not designed for sequential processing, but for parallel processing. Your GPU can process thousands, millions, of things at the same time–think about all the things your GPU is rendering any time you play a game. Every rock, every tree, every gun, every player, every enemy, and on and on. She's got to think about all those things all at once and weave them into a coherent three-dimensional environment for you to explore and enjoy.
Buying advice: Even though they're more available than they have been in years, graphics cards are among the most in-demand PC components, and their prices still swing a bit higher than MSRP in some cases. That's why the picks on this list are generally mid- to high-end. In my opinion, it's better to put the bulk of your budget toward a graphics card. The higher you go now, the longer it's going to last—like buying a $100 pair of shoes that lasts you years, instead of a $20 pair of shoes that fall apart every couple months. Cheap graphics cards are penny-wise but dollar foolish for gaming PCs. For a regular old home office PC, any cheap card from the past couple years will do you just fine.
Suggested Nvidia GeForce Hardware
Nvidia has recently released its latest generation of graphics cards, the GeForce RTX 40-series, but there aren't any on this list. As of this writing, they still have some kinks to work out (not the good kind), they're extremely expensive, and the 30-series is just a better value for performance that's almost as good and sometimes better than the latest, most expensive cards.
- MSI GeForce RTX 2060: If you're looking to get into medium-end gaming, this card strikes a good balance between power and price. Also a great pick for an office computer that will do some video editing or some light gaming.
- Asus ROG Strix RTX 3060: Nvidia’s 30-series graphics cards are often out of stock due to the global chip shortage, but if you can find one for a reasonable price, the RTX 3060 is a killer 1080p and 1440p gaming graphics card.
- Zotac GeForce RTX 3080: Honestly, this is still one of the top performing graphics cards on the market right now, even if you're running games at 4K with ray-tracing on. Add on to that the fact that it's under $1,000, and it's a very appealing card. For an Nvidia build, you can't do much better.
Suggested AMD Radeon Hardware
A note for anyone looking to buy a Radeon card right now: Don't! The newest generation of Radeon graphics cards, the 7000-series, is likely to be announced in early November. Even if you're not interested in a top-end, bleeding-edge card, the imminent release of the new generation will drive current (6000-series) graphics cards down further, so you'll save a little extra if you wait.
- Radeon RX6600: The RX 6600 is a really solid pick for 1080p gaming on an AMD chip.
- Radeon RX 6800 XT: If you're going all-out, the RX 6800 XT is my top choice right now. It's a beast of a GPU that can handle anything you throw at it, even Cyberpunk 2077 at full 4K resolution.
Storage
Samsung 980 Pro M.2 SSD
This is your PC’s walk-in closet. This is where you store all your files, your games, your movies, your documents, your photos, your everything. You can always add more storage later.
Suggested Hardware
- Samsung 980 Pro M.2 SSD: Samsung's M.2 drives are always a good choice. They're quick, durable, and itty-bitty (about the size of a stick of gum), so they can pair with just about any other internal SSD you'd like. Most motherboards have an M.2 slot either on the front of the board or around back, and you don't even have to mess with any cables. This one clocks in at around 6,980 MB/s read speed, and 4,876 MB/s write speed.
- Samsung 970 Evo M.2 SSD: The Evo line is cheaper though a bit slower, but it's still an excellent buy for any build. This M.2 drive tops out at around 3,500 MB/s read speed and 3,300 MB/s write speed. Slower than others on this list but still pretty quick—quick enough for gaming for sure. If you're on a budget, go with the Evo.
- Corsair MP600 M.2 SSD: Corsair's MP600 drive comes with a built-in heat sink to keep temperatures down while it transfers your data at blazing speeds. It features a 4,950 MB/s read speed and 4,250 MB/s write speed.
- WD Blue 1-TB Internal SSD: It's reasonably quick, with plenty of storage space but this Western Digital model is better for a secondary storage drive—not the one you run games or your operating system off of.
Memory (RAM)
You’ll see a lot of the same terms when you’re looking at memory and storage, but they’re very different. Memory is more like that one table you toss things on to deal with later. It’s scratch paper; it’s short-term. It’s very important, though, because software uses memory to cache (temporarily store) data in a place where it can be retrieved quickly.
Suggested Hardware
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 16-GB 288-Pin RAM: High-end gaming rigs always go for 32 or 64 GB of RAM, but a good old pair of 8-GB sticks will see you through most 1080p games and everyday tasks.
- G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32-GB 288-Pin RAM: With this much RAM, you should be pretty well set for everyday tasks and gaming.
- Corsair Dominator Platinum 64-GB 288-Pin RAM: If you need extra heft for content creation or high-end gaming, consider stepping up to 64 GB of RAM.
Power Supply (PSU)
Your power supply unit is a little box that keeps the electricity running to every component. It determines how quick and powerful your PC can be. The faster it is, the more power it needs, and you always want to have a little more than you need, just in case. Just like GPUs, PSUs are also in and out of stock right now.
Suggested Hardware
- EVGA SuperNOVA 750 GA Power Supply: You should always err on the side of having more power than you need, and this unit will provide exactly that.
- NZXT E850 850-Watt Power Supply: This 850-watt power supply should provide enough horsepower to run even the most high-end and demanding builds.
- EVGA SuperNOVA 1,000-Watt Power Supply: For PCs with multiple graphics cards or a whole lot of storage, EVGA's 1,000-watt PSU is a good pick.
Case & Cooler
Your case is just what it sounds like. It’s a metal box. It might be covered in glass panels and etched aluminum, but inside it’s just a big metal box that holds everything together. Make sure you match it up with your motherboard size. For example, if you have an ATX motherboard, you need an ATX (or “full-size”) case.
Suggested Hardware
- Corsair Obsidian Series ATX Full Tower: There are lots of kinds of cases. Some are super small, others are enormous. And your decision will ultimately come down to the design you like as much as anything else. If you're unsure what to get, this one is great for your first build. Other case manufacturers we like are NZXT, Fractal, Phanteks, Cooler Master, and Lian Li.
- NZXT H710i ATX Mid-Tower: This is one of my faves. It has a slick aesthetic and slightly compact silhouette without compromising cooling capability or accessibility.
- MSI Gungnir 110R ATX Mid-Tower Case: This budget-friendly case is a solid option for most people. Be aware that it'll be a tight fit—there's almost no wiggle room for bulky cables or hyperspecific configurations. It looks nicer than you'd think for the money, and the RGB button syncs up your lights with very little effort. The smokey tempered glass allows them to shine through without turning your office into an EDM show.
Operating System
When you build a PC, you don't automatically have Windows included. You'll have to buy a license from Microsoft or another vendor and make a USB key to install it. Or you can check out the newly released Windows 11. Here’s a little more information about what all you get out of the newest version of Windows.
Putting It All Together
The internal layout of every gaming PC is a little different, so we're not going to get too far into the weeds here. Your best bet for specific instructions for your hardware will be referencing your manuals and searching for your components on YouTube. It can be super helpful to actually see a person handle and install your exact hardware, especially when you're stuck and can't quite figure out what the hell your manual is talking about. But here are some general tips for putting all these components together.
First, prep yourself a clean workspace. This can be a dining room table, a cleared-off desk—just any surface big enough for your case to lay flat on its side, with ample room around it for the rest of your components. You’ll also need a Phillips-head screwdriver that will fit the screws on your case. When you put these parts together, be sure to discharge any static buildup and work on a nonmetallic surface like a wooden table. Or you could just assemble the motherboard on top of the cardboard box it comes in.
Most of the components you bought are going to come with instruction manuals; keep them handy. We’re going to start with the motherboard, so open up the instruction manual to the installation page. It can be pretty intimidating—there’s a lot to look at—but think of all this as a big Lego set. Each piece fits into each other piece. For the motherboard, your first job is going to be seating your CPU.
Installing Your CPU
Depending on what kind of CPU you purchased (Intel or AMD), the chip will have either little prongs on one side (don’t touch them) or little golden contacts on one side (don’t touch them). Seriously, don’t touch that side of your chip. Oils from your fingertips can damage the contacts, or you might bend a pin. Do either one and your processor becomes nothing more than an expensive hunk of silicon.
Seating your processor is pretty easy. First, double-check your motherboard’s instructions and make sure you’ve unlocked the processor socket. It’ll be a big square with a bunch of little holes (or contacts), with a lever or button beside it. Your motherboard’s instructions will say explicitly how to unlock the socket so you can put your processor in without any issues.
Once you’ve confirmed that it’s unlocked and ready, just find which corner of your processor has a little golden triangle and line it up with the same symbol on your motherboard’s processor socket. Gently lower the processor into the socket, then gently flip the latch or locking mechanism. You shouldn’t have to fight it. If you have to press really hard, double-check that the processor is socketed correctly.
Next, you’re going to need your thermal paste. That little tiny plastic syringe of silvery goo is very important for this next step. Now that your processor is seated, take a look at the shiny square of silicon in the center of it. That’s where your heat sink is going to sit. Your processor came with a heat sink, and on one side of it, you’ll see a copper circle. You’re going to be putting the heat sink directly on top of the processor after we apply the thermal paste, with the silicone square and the copper circle lining up perfectly.
Go ahead and carefully squeeze a tiny ball (no bigger than a pea) of thermal paste onto the silicon square on your processor. You’ll want it as close to the center as you can get.
Now line up your heat sink with the screws surrounding your processor, and gently lower it into place. You’re gonna squish the thermal paste, and the goal here is to create a thin layer covering the back of your processor. It’s OK if it oozes a little bit, but if it oozes out and over the edge of the processor, you used too much. Get some isopropyl alcohol, dab it on a lint-free wipe, and wipe the processor and heat sink. Wait till they’re thoroughly dry and try again.
If it looks all right, screw your heat sink into place. Flip back to your motherboard instruction book and find the right place near the processor socket to plug in your heat sink’s cooling fan. It should be very close to your processor socket. Once you’ve found it, plug it in—congratulations, you just installed a CPU. This was the hardest part, and it’s over. Good job!
Installing Your Storage and Memory
Memory is maybe the easiest thing to install. See those vertical little sockets beside the CPU? Line up your sticks of RAM and slot them in, starting from the left-hand slot. They’ll lock into place once you’ve seated them properly. If you have two sticks of RAM, make sure to skip a slot between them. Your motherboard manual should say which slots to use.
For your hard drive or solid-state drive (SSD), find an empty bay in the front-facing part of your case. Slide your drive in and screw it into place. If you have an M.2 drive (a tiny SSD about the size of a stick of gum), there should be a place on the motherboard where you slot it in directly. Check out your motherboard’s manual to see where the M.2 slot is if you can't find it.
Installing Your Motherboard and Power Supply
The rest of this is formulaic. Start by putting your motherboard into your case. Consult your motherboard’s instructions, line up the screw holes in the case with the ones on your motherboard, and get to work.
Next, you’ll want to install your power supply. There should be a spot for it near the top or bottom of the case, a big square spot that will fit your supply perfectly. If you’re having trouble finding it, look at the back of your case: There’ll be a big empty square. That’s where the power supply goes (and where you’ll plug in your PC when you’re all done). Once you've found its home, slot it in and screw it into place.
Make sure all the snaky cables coming out of the power supply will reach your motherboard with room to spare. Don’t plug in anything yet; we’re going to come back to the power supply in a bit.
Installing Your Graphics Card
Your GPU is going to be pretty big. Even a modestly powerful GPU like the GTX 1060 is large compared to your other components. That means how it fits into your case is important. Once you put your GPU in there, space is going to start getting tight.
Flip open your motherboard’s instruction book again and look for a PCIe slot. It’s going to be a horizontal slot with a little plastic latch beside it, near the middle or bottom of your motherboard. That’s where the GPU plugs in. All you need to do is identify the back of your GPU (the side with the HDMI and DisplayPorts), line that up with the back of your case, and push the GPU into the horizontal slot. It should lock into place easily enough; if it doesn’t, make sure you’re inserting it correctly.
Find another one of those tiny little screws and fasten your GPU to the case. There’s a little spot for that on the same piece of metal with the HDMI ports. It should be easy to find.
Now, take a look at the cables coming out of your power supply. There should be a few that look like they could fit into the square (or rectangular) socket on the side of your GPU. It should look like six or eight little holes in a rectangle shape. If you’re having trouble, take a look at this video from hardware manufacturer Asus. Some of the specifics will be different, but it’s a great look at how to install a GPU.
Ribbon Cables
The motherboard needs to be hooked into all your devices. The power supply unit I used in this build is what's called fully modular, which means that you can select the cables you need and leave the rest off to eliminate clutter. Otherwise, power supplies have a ton of cables, and you'll have to deal with the unused power connections dangling inside your case. You'll need to connect the PSU to the SSD and the motherboard.
You also need to plug the motherboard into your case—the power buttons, audio plugs, and USB ports on the front of your case. There are special headers for each kind of plug scattered around the board, so you'll want to check your manual for the location and function of each grouping of pins. These tiny pins need to be plugged in a certain way, and they're unbelievably minuscule. There's also a hookup for the case's fan—in the case I used there was one header on the motherboard but three fans installed. Then there's the SATA cable for your SSD, which plugs into the motherboard.
This part of your build really depends on the hardware you purchased, so consult the manuals for each component to ensure you've correctly plugged it into your motherboard and the power supply.
Boot It Up and Install Windows
The final stage of your build is a simple one: Hit your power button. If the PC whirs to life, you probably put it together perfectly! If it doesn't, don't despair. There are a lot of potential problems that could cause a PC to fail to boot up for the first time. This video from Kingston goes over some pitfalls that might cause you some headaches, so if you're not able to boot your PC, give it a watch and retrace your steps.
There's also a chance you could have received faulty components. This video goes over some tips on how to check your parts. In general, if you’re having trouble with a specific component, YouTube is your friend. There are tons of helpful PC-building tutorials.
If it started up just fine, the next step is super easy: Turn it off. Remember that Windows flash drive you made earlier? Plug it into the PC and boot it up again. If you set it up right, your computer should just do its thing and get started installing Windows. If not, you might need to open your BIOS (check your motherboard's manual for how to do that) and set the USB drive to be a “boot device” first. Here's a brief rundown of that process (start at step 3).
Jaina Rodriguez Grey , Louryn Strampe Wired How-to-build-a-PC
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